This is a story from our first visit to Vritomartis many years ago. We had flown from the United States, changed planes in Athens for our flight to Chania, and then driven the little French rental car that we named “Gigi” over the mountains to Vritomartis. After unpacking and having dinner, we skipped the orientation talk and went straight to bed.
The next morning, we decided to go to the beach, but having skipped the orientation talk we were unsure how to get there. We missed the road to Filaki Beach and instead found ourselves driving down an unpaved road toward a secluded cove. We knew this must be the wrong place, but it looked pretty, so we parked Gigi and got out our towels and snorkeling gear.

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